Part 1 – Ensenada to Turtle Bay
We were finally ready to begin the great boating adventure it took two years to plan. We pulled out of the slip in Ensenada at 4:30 Wednesday morning I sat on the bow with a spotlight to make sure we didn’t run into any rocks. It was cool but not cold and dark. Ensenada had enough population to brighten the night sky but not nearly as much as LA or San Diego. So, with Leroy (our Cocker Spaniel) on my lap to keep me company I watched the water keeping an eye for any hazards while Mike watched the radar screen. I would hear noises on the water and when I would shine the light, and I would see flying fish! They were small, but they could leap out of the water for what seemed like great distances. I’m not entirely sure they were flying fish, but I’d like to think that at 4:30 in the morning leaving Ensenada Mexico, I saw flying fish! We stood close watch for about an hour until we were in open water, I kissed Mike and went back to bed. I slept in the salon so if he needed me, he wouldn’t have to scream above the engine noise.
After I got up a second time, I relieved Mike of his captain duty so he could get some sleep too. In the morning hours the sea was calm with small swells by the afternoon the swells had gotten a little bigger, and the topography of the water also turned choppy, but our little boat kept bobbing right along. In the afternoon Mike took over as captain again and I thought it would be a great day to work on my suntan.
We neared the shores of San Quintin around 5:50 PM we found a spot to drop anchor with time left to watch the sunset. There was a seal that came up to welcome us, and Leroy didn’t like him. I could hear the same seal during the night and saw him again when we began the next morning. (Yes, I want to believe it’s the same seal… just like I believe it was flying fish!) We had a little dinner for two and as the night engulfed us, the blues turning to black the stars shone brightly.
San Quintin is much smaller than Ensenada, and where we anchored, we really had no glow of city lights. They really is nothing as astonishing and breathtaking as seeing the night sky without the inference of city lights. Only on childhood field trips to the planetarium could you imagine how many stars are out there. It was something I wish my camera could have picked up, when you looked West out to sea you really could not tell where the sea stopped in the sky began. The stars seemed to touch the water on the horizon. It was a moonless night and something I’m glad we got to see. I’m sure we’ll have more nights at anchor where we’ll be able to gaze upon the stars, but this was the first time we were reminded of how beautiful the night sky can be.
Even though we technically started this trip almost a week ago, this really felt like the beginning of the adventure to ports unknown. We hadn’t had much experience really setting the anchor and trusting that we were good for the night. We took turns getting up roughly every hour to check our position and make sure the anchor was still holding. It wasn’t a night for a lot of rest, the boat turned around the anchor and the water knocking against the hull were unfamiliar sounds. We would rely on the GPS lat and long to find out if we really moved, because the view of shore changed constantly as the boat swung around the anchor, making us think that we had moved. We had set the anchor well; we hadn’t moved all night. It was going to be an early departure again in order for us to get to the next anchorage before dark. I was thinking we’d head out 4:30 – 5 am, but Mike’s idea of early was 3:30 am. UGH! These are the longest legs of our journey, and we don’t want the extra hassle of pulling into unknown anchorages at night. Besides, we really could sleep all day if we wanted. We are headed to San Benito, where we’ll anchor for the night.
Mike has kept up on all navigation and reading many books about the places we are stopping. I think he is enjoying himself a lot. He helped me set up a rod and reel with a high-speed trolling lure today, I threw it off the back and dreamed of fresh fish for dinner. A few hours later, I decided that fish might like raw chicken…just so you know, I don’t think they do. I watched the tip of the rod bounce around in the wake for about an hour when I decided to try again later…at fish feeding time. DUH! However, fishing isn’t always about catching fish, it was nice just laying in the sun watching the water tug at the tip of the pole and the sea foam play upon the waves and disappear. Did I think deep thoughts and find the meaning of life? Nope, just enjoyed the day we had in front of us.
We spent about 90% of the day without a view of land, it was a great day to view marine life. We had a school of dolphins ride the bow wake for a while. We also saw four or five whales. They didn’t stop and introduce themselves, so it’s possible we saw one of them twice. Two or three had come within 20 yards of the boat. The others were off in the distance, but we could clearly see them blow water mist. It was fantastic! Now keep in mind Mike and I did read a true story about how pilot whales that had battered a sailboat until it sank. From what we could see they were rather large after they would blow their body length was as long as our 40’ boat, even though it would have been really neat to see them up close it was reassuring they kept their distance. While whale watching, we did see a single flying fish! Mike saw it too so now there is no question this time!
As the daylight began to wane, we decided that even though we had gotten up as early as we did, we still weren’t going to make it to the anchor by nightfall. So instead of San Benito Island, we change course to the east, and we would anchor at San Cedros Isla. We chose this one because there were no rocks to dodge like the ones which surrounded San Benito’s as the night closed in around us and using the maps, we found the anchorage they had marked. The book said the closer to the island the better but with our limited visibility, we didn’t want to risk swinging into the shore during the night. The shore was rocky with cliffs, and with what we could see hitting the shore could cause major damage. Needless to say, it was a very long night the anchorage wasn’t the best and our boat rocked and rolled all night. Items that hadn’t been stored or secured were flying off the counters, the chair went from one side to the next, and the dishes in the cupboards were clinging and clanging into each other so I stuffed dish towels to stop the noise. The boat at times felt as if it would tip all the way over of course it really wouldn’t but it was a long night I kept watch all night and let Mike get some rest, if he was able, I got a little sleep a little at a time but as much as the boat rocked I was worried it might rock the anchor from its hold we did a great job setting the anchor because as much as we tossed about the GPS confirmed we didn’t move, even though everything that wasn’t tied down did.
I watched the sunrise over the ocean, the sky slowly shedding its black cover into beautiful shades of blue, then oranges and yellows as the sun rose. We started our next day at sea with daylight on our side. As we set out, we saw a few dolphins and seals. Mike set the course and we began our trek to Turtle Bay and I went to bed.
I decided to cut the story into smaller parts, that way I have a little time to write and it won’t be a novel in one blog post. I’ll work hard to get the next part added, so I don’t leave you on the edge of your seat.